Watches as Jewelry: A Collection of Craftsmanship & Memories

I've worn a watch every day for as long as I can remember, usually in the Timex family. I’ve always had a watch and used as the primary way to tell time even after I could use my phone for that purpose as well. But I never thought of watches as collectible jewelry — until I interviewed Paul Brown about his watch collection. 

Breitling Chrono Avenger, known for its waterproof capabilities

Paul Brown received his first watch, a digital, when he was seven or eight, but his fascination with watches began with a Swatch. Remember the Swatch? Launched in 1983 in Switzerland, the Swatch product line -- Swatch is a contraction of "second watch" -- was offered as casual, disposable accessories. The originals (different models are still offered by the Swatch Group) had an open case back, a transparent cover on the backside of the watch that allowed you to see the inner workings of the movement. 

Brown's collection now includes six watches valued at more than $20,000. They are unique, automatic wind-ups as opposed to the quartz watches most of us wear that run on batteries. His prize ones are the three he got from Seiko diver's watch as a police officer in Atlanta and passed it down to Paul when he was in his early teens.

“That watch was enormous on my wrist,” Paul recalls.  “Honestly, it was a bit of a status symbol. As a young guy, I wanted to wear it to impress my friends.”

  Paul’s dad got the Omega Constellation for his father during his tour as a Marine sniper in Vietnam.  When Paul’s grandfather died, his father inherited the watch and now it’s been passed down to Paul.  And the Rolex?  His dad gave it to him on his wedding day in 2002. Paul was 24.  His dad passed away six years later. 

Paul Brown with his three favorite watches; his father-in-law Dave Johnson (the subject of an earlier Bijoux Bios post) looks on at the door     

     

I interviewed Paul at the home of his father-in-law Dave Johnson (the subject of an earlier Bijoux Bios post) in Tallahassee. After we’d finished talking, Dave observed that there was a common thread in both of their stories: “The real value of the jewelry is the connection they have with our parents.“

     

Below is an edited excerpt from our conversation.

— Jaye Ann Terry

Q:  Apart from the connection to your dad in three of the watches, is there anything else that makes these
watches special?

 

A : They are completely handmade, which requires a lot of skill, the detail in the manufacturing, and the use of fine metals.

Q:  Do they require any special care to maintain?

A:  They do.  I use a watch winder, a device used to keep automatic watches running when they’re not being worn.  And I have them serviced about every seven years. 

Q:  How did you learn about watches?

A:  Growing up, I read a monthly magazine. I think it was just called Watches.  And I also liked to read an encyclopedia of watches.

Zenith Port Royal 5,

Q:  You mentioned you also have a Zenith Port Royal 5.

A:   Zenith created a watch with the first ever integrated automatic chronograph movement, which is still the world’s most precise series-made caliber. It is the only one capable of measuring short times to the nearest tenth of a second.

Tom Brown's favorites from his dad:
Seiko diver’s watch, an Omega Constellation and a Rolex

Q:  You also own a Breitling Chrono Avenger, known for its waterproof capabilities.

A:   I use that one when I go fishing.

Q:  I notice you’re wearing an Apple watch.

A:   It’s a Series 3 and it’s my go-to everyday watch. It reminds of Dick Tracy days, You can talk on it, keep track of apps — and tell time.

Q:   Pie in the sky. If you could have any watch in the world which would it be?

A:   A German company, A. Lange & Söhne, makes my dream watch. But it’s $40,000-$50,000. Impressively beautiful, but definitely not in the budget.